A Morning Adventure on Sapelo Island

Adventure indeed!

After a very bad night's sleep, we were up with the alarm at 6.30am. Coffee and scrambled eggs with tomato for breakfast...a couple of hours earlier than our bodies would have liked, but there you have it.
Suzie and Brent met us at the car for the trip 8 miles just past Darien, (20 miles to the north), to the wharf and the Ferry to Sapelo Island.

The island is just 11 miles long, and we had absolutely no idea what to expect, despite looking at photos and maps the night before.
We had been warned by one of the other live-aboards, that we should wear long sleeves/trousers, because of the nasty insects. Well, she was totally WRONG. We didn't wear longs, due to the heat, and if we had, we would have been most uncomfortable. We did spray ourselves with plenty of OFF, and other than a troublesome wasp, there were NO insects to be found. Perhaps the stiff breeze kept them away.

We left the wharf, along with way more people than we anticipated, for the half hour ferry ride to the Island.

The marshes were stunning in the early morning light. This was 8.30am!

The ferry was already fairly full, by the time we parked the car, along with all the others, which indicated to us that we would not be the only ones, on this ride. How silly of me to think we were going in a small boat...where did I get that idea? duh! Perhaps the whole thing hadn't been explained very well to me...seeing as it was a fella, who gave the directions,.:)

 'Anyway, ignorance was bliss, in this case, and we happily hopped aboard and waited for the rest of the passengers to join us, along with all manner of strange cargo, obviously going to an island where there is no hardware store, if you get my drift! Ok...just WHAT was on this island?

The lone fisherman caught a couple of fish, while we waited for the other passengers.

 Those cars, (below) go well down the road and into two parking lots...there is even an 'overflow' parking lot further down the road. WOW! THAT many people go to the island? You betcha!

Just waiting for the other passengers...

 Forward of the Pilot House where the public were not allowed, but the scene was so gorgeous, I pushed against the chain to get the photo!

It was definitely cooler at the back of the fly deck, and the two of us stood where Waz is, to make the most of the breeze.

 For about 10 mins, we thought we were going to get some rain, or at least an overcast day. No such luck.

The vessel is a twin engine steel-hulled ferry. Fortunate...the two engines...when it came to maneuvering in tight places in the marshes for docking and departing.

It was almost high tide, going out, but the Captain knew his territory, swinging wide on some of the turns....why he did this, was most apparent on the return trip, at half tide, where we could see sand bars well out into the river.

We disembarked, not knowing what we were doing next, and Brent was a little vague, to be honest. He said something about R.J tours. We were pointed, initially, to a 15 seater van. Loaded onboard with a few others...well, to be honest, they just kept coming, so the driver (RJ) told us all to get off, and he drove away with the van, returning with an old Blue Bird School Bus. To say that this thing was 'Over the Hill' would be an understatement. I remarked to Brent, that one could see daylight between the stops up into the bus! hmm....

 The ferry pulled into the small Marina/Dock at Sapelo, alongside this interesting looking research vessel owned by the University of Georgia.

 There were a few returning 'Islanders', including the Post Office lady with the days mail.

 We are about to get on the old school bus. She looks lovely, from here, but she wasn't, trust me!

After ;ambling' down the one lane road from the Ferry terminal (above) towards a 'highway', such as is was, we drew up alongside this building. Yes, it is an old Hangar. Apparently it hasn't been used since Jimmy Carter visited the Island some time I the mid '80s. That is the landing strip on the left. It was built by R.J. Reynolds of Tobacco Fame, for his own plane, to land.

Our second stop was the Behavior Cemetery for African Americans. The story goes: The slave master on the Island (Sugar Plantation) would tell the slaves that they could do anything on the Island, as long as they Behaved. So I guess these folks didn't behave and were buried in the cemetery of that name?

 A pretty place, if one has to be buried somewhere. We didn't have time to walk among the grave stones, but it sure would have been informative to have done so.

RJ driving us along one of the 'Highways'. I think one of the two lane jobbies is known locally as the 'Autobahn'..hahahaha!  very funny! We shaved many a tree trunk, slashed the windows with palm fronds and other tree debris, as we made our way along these skinny roads. Occasionally we came across another vehicle driving towards us. Both vehicles moved to the far side, and off the road in the grass, to get by.

RJ, apparently stands for Ira James...I forget his last name, but it was very English. He had an accent thicker than sugar syrup, and it was hard to unnerstand what he was telling us. The words all kind of mashed together to form one long sentence. However, this much I did 'get'. He is an 8th generation African American to live on Sapelo Island. The first of his forebears to come here was from Sierra Leone, on the African Continent. There was no African country that escaped the ravages of the Slave Trade to the Americas and Britain.

We were bitterly disappointed that there wasn't more history on our 'tour'. Having paid $25 per head for it, after $5 for the ferry, and then $2.59 for the two ice-creams we felt obliged to purchase at the Country Store, to keep the local economy going....we felt we should have had a bit more history.:(

Instead we were driven to this place....where we saw rows of microscopes on desks...perhaps for the many school kids that come here. The exhibits were a bit naff, but we had no idea what to expect. Perhaps more?

Some interesting specimens in bottles.. One thing I did find out....that all the rattlesnake varieties that are found in Georgia...about 7 of them, are Venomous! how surprising! ahem!
They are the only snakes that are, of the 30 something snakes found here. Note to self! Don't garden without thick gloves on!

 These skulls of Sea Turtles are amazing for their size. They are at least 12 inches front to back, and at least 10-12 inches across. Look at those eye sockets!

And because we are in the Sarth... no exhibit is complete without an Aligator skull. This one measures about three feet front to back.

Outside is this sign. Love some of the names. We drove past the lovely 'town' of Hog Hammock. Lovely might be a gross exaggeration, but it is home for a few people. When I say a few....the total president population of the Island is around 52. Yes, that is Black Beard Island...the Original Black Beard the pirate. Yes, he came from these parts.

No visit is complete without a Post Office shot!

 This building used to belong to the original Sugar Factory. The photo below shows a garden where there used to be a swimming pool. Thomas Spalding (owner) used to teach the local boys to swim in that pool, apparently.

 These ruins are part of the original Sugar Factory. They are made of tabby...the Oyster shell, limestone, sand and water mix that makes up so many of the old buildings.

 Tabby, up close and personal.

The Island is just 11 miles long...or did I already tell you that?

There really isn't a lot to see. The roads are bound by shrubs...lots of azeleas, which will be beautiful when in bloom, palmetto, tall pines (native) and Live Oaks.
Well, I should apologize for stating that there was nothing to see....obviously there is plenty.

 Waz, about to enter the only store on the Island.

 The Autobahn! Tall pines line the road, along with the aforementioned Azeleas and other 'bushes'.

We noticed that RJ didn't use his mirrors to back....something he had to do a lot of , due to the size of the vehicle in the tight spaces we entered. Hmmm...can you see why??? and yes, that is Spanish Moss handing off the top mirror...or what is left of it. We collected other foliage along the way. The road wasn't so wide in places.

Next we came upon the former Dairy, of the RJ Reynold Plantation. He was a Farmer, or Rancher, and they exported milk products to the Mainland from this Dairy. It is now part of the University of Georgia program. Not studying Dairy!

 Can you see he sculpture? It is of a Turkey. The story goes that RJ had this fountain made for his lovely wife (a Turkey? really???)...and she hated it so much, she attempted to blow it up. This wasn't successful, obviously, but the explosion succeeded in blowing out all the windows in the surrounding buildings.

I guess we did learn some history, after all!!


Then....We come to South End House. This is the RJ Reynolds (Tobacco Millionaire) holiday home that is now a Convention Center, run by the Dept. Natural Resources..

 This is the front entry. The swimming pool is cracked and in desperate need of cleaning and painting/sealing.

 You can read all about it here.

The inside of the house was viewable for a mere $2 each on a self guided tour. Our dear RJ decided to act as guide, once we paid the lady in the gift store. Ever asked yourself why EVERY place like this has a gift store? Well, there is the upkeep, for one! :)  Those stairs go down into the basement games room. more on that later.....

The large entry hall doubles as the living room. Those beams are stunning!

 As is the carved door. Look at the thickness of that panel!

 The study

The Indoor swimming pool was covered in for Weddings etc. what a shame. Apparently the original pool had gold tiles, and when the lights came on at night, the reflections were stunning. This is such a pretty room, don't you think?

This is the room fronting onto the indoor pool. The painting decorations are wonderful.

 See the squirrel on the middle right? on the fence!

 a better view of the indoor pool space.

There are something like 16 bedrooms, and about as many bathrooms in the home. They are quite nice, if a bit dated.

 The PINK bathroom.!

 Upstairs from the main floor is the Children's play room. This is also known as the Circus Room. It is delightful. The highlight of the tour, actually. The painted walls are lovely.

 Along a very narrow corridor, which we all thought was probably the 'behind the scenes servants' corridors, was the Laundry. This is the Folding Table.

 Back downstairs and into the Dining Room.

 Waz, in the photo above, is off to the kitchen...I followed closely on his heels.
Oh look! Chafing dishes all in a row!

 The other end of the dining room. I found it a bit too somber.

 and...right down stairs....remember those little stairs just off the entry, way back when? was the adult game room. This gorgeous Spanish tiled fireplace and indoor bar-b-q (2) is to one side. I bet that is a cozy place in winer.

 A lovely big room with games for the whole family...Billiards, a bowling lane...

 

Ping pong?

 These are the gorgeous Spanish tiles on two of the tables near the fireplace.

Back out the front door, and looking back at the empty swimming pool in the background.

Such a pretty terrace.

The lady in the pool!

 And off we go again...see how dirty the front windshield is! and how narrow the road....and how close the vegetation?

 We are now on our way to visit the Sapelo Island Light House. This view out across the marshes.

The Sapelo Light House was built in 1830. She is a rather short one, and no longer necessary, as modern shipping has GPS.

 This board shows the existing Light Houses in the area.

Our last stop of the day was the Beach. What a stunning beach it was too. The delicate dunes are preserved by the walkway over the top to the picnic tables under cover, and the stairs down t the water's edge.

 The sand is so fine, it hard packs. Brent and Suzie waded out to their knees in the Atlantic, and said the bottom was rock hard out that far.

And then it was all over. 11.30am, we headed back to the Ferry, and by noon, she was on her way back to Darien Wharf. Just as we approached, there was a large log in the water, jammed under and between the poles. These two fellas got it hooked with their boat hook, and dragged it down the length of the boat, and out the back. The captain went forward on the poles in order to send the log on it's way further south.

 They almost have it...

And so our visit to Sapelo Island ended. It was VERY hot by now, and we had forgotten to put the sun shade up in the front windshield, so the car was like an oven. We headed back to Darien for some much needed lunch. Suzie and Brent had not eaten breakfast, so they were not only looking forward to food, but long cold water drinks too.
We ate at the Captains Table Restaurant. I was not impressed with the one large crab cake and lettuce and spinach thrown on a plate with a few pieces of bacon and some packaged shredded cheese thrown on top...$13.99, thanks.Suzie had the same thing, but Brent and Waz had fish on a bun with other stuff for $12.99, which looked better value for money.

Craving a cup of coffee, we headed home. Not before taking a photo of this building, which dates back to the early 1800's, and was a warehouse for what was once a very busy Port of Darien. Darien is now home to a Shrimp fleet, and not much else. This building is for sale!

 Outside the restaurant was a pond with this interesting fish, which kind of looks like a Gar, but nobody could tell us what it was. Also some terrapins...very curious and very fat.

We were appalled at the conditions in the pond, which you can see here. Dirty, and the water must have been 100F, being shallow. Some of the Terrapins had callouses on their necks and were covered in slime, like this one is. Disgusting, to allow this to be in the front of your business, and not keep the animals in a clean environment. We wont be back!

Waz has been up at the yacht club all evening, playing Euchre with a small crowd. He just got back, and it is time to turn in, being 11pm. It has been a long day, but we enjoyed the outing and seeing somewhere new.

Nothing else planned for a while, sorry. :) Be assured that I will report anything new!
Ciao!