The Continuing Adventures of Mon and Waz

The Adventures of Captain Warren and First Mate Monica. Having completed America's Great Loop in 2014, life doesn't slow down for these intrepid travelers. Each year brings new challenges; some good, some bad, but challenges nonetheless! 2017 sees them renting an apartment while 'Untide' is For Sale. Life on terra firma isn't all it is cracked up to be, but more change is in the wind. Read on for the latest!

Tuesday 13 October 2015

Day 3 in Paris - George Pompidou Center to the Louvre and Tuileries

Today's long jaunt was to go via the Georges Pompidou Center via a whole lot of other places to the Louvre and beyond. At some point we hit the wall and take the Metro, and we did rather start out that way today. We caught the tube just around the corner at Luxembourg, just down the Blvd St Michel, so handy to where we stayed, and at the other end of our street, into Chatelet/Les Halles.
One of the reasons for getting on at Luxembourg was that we had walked down Blvd St Michel trying to find somewhere to have breakfast. We were tired...well, I was...and sitting in a café eating a nice breakfast seemed like a good idea....well, it was, except that I misinterpreted (duh!) the French word for scrambled eggs. I still cant remember it. I thought it was boiled. Waz wanted boiled eggs...he loves them, and I was content to go with the Fixe Prix of 8.9 euros for the Continental breakfast of Café and petite Viennoiserie....simply put, croissant either plain or chocolat.
Well, our breakfast came out with two large plates full of scrambled eggs...warm. The texture wasn't particularly nice either, but I ate most of mine and Waz ate all of his...protein breakfast, and all that!

I felt a bit of an idiot that I had failed to communicate our needs, at this Hotel Restaurant...but I have a feeling I was played for an idiot too, and the waiter made dumb in order to charge us more! Before this visit to France, you would never...NEVER hear me say anything against the French people...but it is always  one or two who spoil it for the others. I really felt 'done' by this fella!...hmmm!

This is the pretty view out the window of the breakfast room. At least the grand crème was hot! I would have thrown it back if not!

Yes, it was raining again, and no, we didn't take our brolly with us...I know! You would think, wouldn't you?

Anyway, the forecast said there would be intermittent rain...so we took the forecasters at their word.

Back to our destination....
Back in 1981 (a looong time ago) the buildings of Les Halles, the old market buildings in Paris, were still there and you could look through the glass at what used to be a famous landmark, and which continues to be a landmark, just different.

It was with some shock that we came upon what is the NEW Les Halles. The building that is rising from the old is unbelieveable. It is fantastic, and like nothing else you have ever seen. It will be fantastic, and I look forward to visiting again in a couple of years time to see the finished article.

A metro train going in the other direction, but I thought you would want to see what all this underground stuff looks like.


Anyway, we got off the metro at Chatelet/Les Halles, which opens right into a huge underground 'market' and shopping center! Sorry for poor quality of photos!

We kind of hung around here because they had nice bathrooms...know what I mean? you don't? Ok...I will spell it out! This one you had to pay .50c for the use of, with a woman sitting at a desk in front of the loos to collect your money! what a job!...but they were also some of the cleanest loos we had come across, so nothing wrong with a little extra walking to move things along when the opportunity presents, right?:)

And once we had used our spare pennies, we exited to street level, and this is what greeted us, from a raised viewing platform. This area used to be the original Les Halles markets. This building is amazing to me.

All the workings are housed in this little container village, with a backdrop of the lovely Eglise St Eustache (church)...which, by the way, used to also be black, in my past life. Lovely to see her shiny new blockwork!:)

This, below, is what the new area will eventually look like! How fab is this!
That round building at the bottom is the Paris Bourse, or Stock Exchange. It will have lovely gardens and lawns (which you wont be allowed to walk on! THIS is Paris, afterall! and lovely trees for summer shade. Nice!
 Just look at that roof! How fantastic is that?

Of course we had to take some detail photos, back down at street level, of this fantastical roof understructure. I just LOVE the engineering of these things.

We turned around to be confronted by these modern high rise apartments. Love the gardens on the top of some of them. Not exactly pretty, but different in this city of OLD buildings.

There was a small outdoor market nearby which we strolled through and took temporary shelter from the rain under the awnings...These advertised Bio (organic) Potato skewers were 6 euros each...daylight robbery!


Some of the other food looked lovely, and if we had not recently eaten, we might have been tempted.  The Vendor didn't seem to mind me poking my camera over the top of the Perspex to get a decent photo of the lovely food. I made sure to show my Frenglish appreciation:)
 YUM!


These salted meat stalls are all over the place.

And all this was on the side of this ancient looking fountain, which I'm sure has a name, but I cant find it anywhere though I would normally take a photo of the name plate as a reminder, but not this time. Ack! it was very Romanesque, anyway/

It was in a pretty little square with autumn leaves falling and lanterns hanging from their curled posts.
This fountain was in need of some renovation and cleaning, we think. It has the Ile de Paris Coat of Arms on one side. The fleur de lis and the sailing ship.

 ...and a very Romanesque woman, both in pose and attitude. Those pillars in in bad shape!


Of course, everywhere we look there is the reminder that the Rugby World Cup is going on across the ditch in England. The French are very involved, of course:)

The George Pompidou Center is looking pretty tired. It was built in the late 1970's and was still pretty new and exciting when I was living in Paris in 1981. It was very controversial design-wise, back then, and probably would be now. I don't think Paris would be the same without these iconic buildings, starting with the Eiffel Tower...that too was controversial in it's time! Look at the fuss made over the IM Pei Pyramid at the Louvre! aiee!
 \

Outside one of the buildings surrounding the Center, was this young woman totally engrossed in her cell phone. I had to take the photo...the doors, the woman, the setting, the dress..etc.


And opposite her was this sight. The Fountains that are supposed to be mechanical, but they also got a bit tired and most of them don't do what they were meant to, originally...but they are still colorful, if nothing else.
 This one I my favorite:)


I think I have addressed the issue of Grafitti before. I believe there is a place for outdoor artwork, and then there is mindless 'tagging' without a purpose other than narcissism. If you look at the bottom of this outdoor artwork on the brick wall, you will see the latter!


There is much netting on the outside of the George Pompidou Center now because of the Pigeon epidemic. The poop has corroded the metal and they are in the process of renovations and renewal.



Charcuterie is always such a pleasure to view through a shop window and this one certainly was.


Probably just as much as Charcuterie, is the Patisserie...and this Macaroon gateau was certainly a sight to behold. I actually didn't feel inclined to want to try it!

More Charcuterie...savory aspics. Look how beautiful they are, but about 4 euros each!

Roasting potatoes with onions is what we were often served with our meals. Lovely!

A Boucherie window...what beautiful meat! look at the color! Reminds us of NZ meat!

All kinds of poultry...take you pick!
 Just look at those lovely Mallards there...beak and all!


This cake shop had a Ratatouille the Rat cake in the window. The movie was wonderful. If you haven't seen it! do!

and also a Minions Cake. Cant say I want to see this movie, but the character is everywhere.

We found ourselves eventually in the Marais...which is also known as the Jewish Quarter. My youngest son and I stayed here for a week in 2004, and loved the area. Marais means Marsh or marshes. I think I told you that already!
 Looking out to the street, though a window. I was poking my head through the front door of the shop to take this photo! :)

 Wall art!

We poked our noses around the corner of the Musee Carnavalet, into this lovely garden...all well trimmed Buxus hedges...and Roses ...all well trained!

Almost next to our next destination in the Marais, was this Gelato shop. This young Chinese woman was happy to show me their wonderful gelato creations. These are works of art, and you cant be in a hurry when you order one. Waz had one with three flavors, and I had a cup with two.

The Place des Vosges is one of my favorite quiet, contemplative places, in the middle of what is the hustle and bustle of the Marais, and indeed, Paris. We sat a while and finished our Gelato before walking onwards.

One of four (4 x corners) Fountains in the Place des Vosges. Note the lovely apartment buildings surrounding this lovely park. Do NOT walk on the grass please! The Place des Vosges, the oldest urban square in Paris, was designed by Architect Louis Mezeveau and begun in 1605.

The vaulted walkway that surrounds two sides of the Place des Vosges, is something special, although the cold wind doth whistle down here something horrid in colder months.
 A Grape Vine survives despite the city and the buildings.  Precious little soil where this one grew.
 We found our way to Rue Vielle du Temple (Old Temple) past the National Archives where we peered in the door, on Rue Rambuteau, and out to Blvd Beaumarchais. A big loop, in other words. It began to rain in earnest by now, and we sought places to shelter, if only for a short time.

The BMW Motorcycle showroom was one such warm and dry place, where we admired and appreciated these beautiful motorcycles. The salespeople were far too busy having a private conversation to attend to or notice us, so we took photos (or I did) to our hearts desire:) This beauty goes for about 30,000 euros.

We were a little tired and damp, by this stage, but the weather seemed to know we needed to keep walking outside. When you go down under to catch the Metro, you miss so much that is above!
Waz outside the Metro station, as we decided, at Place Bastille, to keep walking.


Well, you would, when you see things like this beautiful wooden bath, right? Made for very small people, methinx! It didn't take much of a debate to decide that this is one of those things that looks lovely, but not very practical for tall people.

The rain came down again in buckets, so we again sought shelter, and watched in fascination as these little kids were dragged across the road, all tethered:) Makes good sense, and they were obviously used to it.

AHA! The Seine, finally. Having walked from Place Bastille down Blvd Henri 1V to Quai Henri 1V, we walked along the Seine, past the Ile St Louis, on the left here, Quai des Celestins, Quai de l'Hotel de Ville (Town Hall) which all run one into the other....and the sun had come out again...see why we didn't take our brolly!
 Some fanciful building took my eye...not sure what this is...
 Apartment houses on Ile St Louis, along the Seine, on the other side of the river.

...and the spire and towers of Notre Dame de Paris came into view as we came alongside the Ile de la Cite., still walking along the Quai, along the Seine towards the Hotel de Ville, at this stage.

The Dome of the Universite de Paris, Sorbonne, in the background.

I love these typical street scenes, in Paris, with the lovely trees, all turning color, now.

Poplar leaves on the pavement.

The dome of the Musee de la Monaie, left foreground, and the spires of the Conciergerie on the far right. The latter used to be a prison.

We stopped for lunch on the corner of Quai Gesvres and Blvd Sebastapol, next to the Parc Victoria,

where we ate pate with cornichons and small salad and four pieces of baguette. Two a piece! The French woman across from us was not happy with her entrecote steak, which was tough and too rare, so she sent it back. The waiter was indifferent, and did not give her any money off the meal, though she had to wait a long time for it's replacement.
At this point, we had passed the Hotel de Ville, which is a very imposing and ornate building (below).
  and were now alongside yet another bridge, this one being Pont Notre Dame, so we must have been opposite the Notre Dame.  I love the happy face underneath the bridge.

All along this Quai de la Megisserie were the flower and bulb vendors, and the pet shops. I could have spent a small fortune here! WOW! things I have never seen before!
Pansies have such happy faces, especially on a wet day. Yes it had rained yet again, but the sun had also come out, periodically.
Hyacinths!


Moving right along....down the Quai Francoise Mitterand to the Louvre. We had in effect done a very large loop, by now. We were also starting to flag! Needed to sit down and just absorb what we were about to see.

First we had to negotiate the pet shop! We are rather compelled to see how other nationalities do normal things...and pets are one of those. The cages were immaculate with the attendant removing any offensive matter the minute it is done. Small dogs are de rigeur in Paris, due to apartment living.

and then we came across yet another flower vendor...plants that is, and I spied a Gentian! These lovely flowers give their name to Gentian Violet Paint color that all artists will be familiar with..
 Lovely doorways all along the Quai...


Until we finally came to the South Portal or Door, of the Louvre Museum.


Warning: When you first come into the space (huge, I might add) that houses the Louvre Museum, it is rather awe inspiring and it almost takes your breath away. The ornate nature of the buildings, the architecture and the relief and sculpture is something to behold. It is truly magnificent.



Of course everything has a meaning. We didn't  want to go there this visit, but just enjoy the spectacle that was in front of us.



Coming through the South Portal gives one a rather unique perspective, when you come out into the courtyard where the IM Pei Pyramid is, and you stop and look around you at the Grandeur. It is, apart from anything else, an architectural marvel.

As you can see, the sun came out for this most splendid part of our day.


Seriously....what could anyone have designed and built that could rival the surrounding buildings? IM Pei was indeed inspired, in my opinion, to do something so totally modern and yet so fitting. There just is no competition between the two....the Pyramid and the Louvre. They co-exist.



Look at the top of these lanterns:) The detail is amazing.





This young woman, clad almost entirely in black leather, came and sat down beside us, as we contemplated the majesty around us. This is a very peaceful photo, to me.



It is too bad the fountains were not playing, this day, and there was no water in the ponds.



I was highly intrigued by the mix of clothing these Chinese tourists were wearing. I am rather fond of this photo.


Look at the detail in this relief.


Of course, opposite the Louvre, at the head of the Jardin de Tuilleries is the Petit Arc de Triomphe du Carousel. Napoleans Army were victorious in battle and were coming home well before he had the large Arc de Triomphe finished, so he sought to build this one in time for their return as a Triumphal arch. It is my favorite of the two arches.
As you leave the Arc, you are in the Tuillerie Gardens. You can walk (and look) straight down to the Place de la Concorde and the Obelisque.
 Detail on the side of the Arch. Look at the Chain Mail.

This was Fashion Week in Paris, and beautiful young women were everywhere, and dressed to the nines. This lovely young woman was just about to leave. She had a professional photographer taking photos of her.

These women looked like they had bought the store out.

By now we needed to take another break. We had walked miles, and our feet were sore, and our brains a little fried. We loved watching the two goats clean up the garden...well, the lawn, anyway. Yes, this is in the Tuillerie Gardens.


The pond had plenty of people watching the sea gulls. With the sun out, there were lots of worshippers too, faces to the sun, oblivious to what was going on around them.
 The scene was so peaceful, and nobody was in a hurry. All were enjoying the experience of being in the famous gardens. You could almost see the lovely carriages of old, with beautiful women holding parasols in their latest fashionable gowns strolling in the gardens. How lovely that must have been.


At the far end, Place de la Concorde, there were a few papparazi standing around with their fancy cameras and lenses. I asked one of them if he was a Pap, and he looked rather embarrassed. I asked if he knew who this young man was, and he replied that he was just 'some Dandy'.


Place de la Concorde was not possible to access due to the construction and deconstruction of the Fashion Week tents et al. I did manage a photo of the famous lamp posts though. Very Egyptian, to go with the Obelisque.

Yet another bridge covered in Padlocks...grrrrr!~

 That roof must be French!
 Looking back down the Seine, now that the sun was out for good, towards the Spire and twin towers of Notre Dame de Paris. That is a Police Boat making haste, in the middle.


We had truly had enough by now, but we needed to be on the right Metro line to get home . We walked back along the Quai des Tuilleries , crossed the Seine at Pont Royale to Quai Voltaire and the Musee D'Orsay Metro station. We changed trains, going up and down many stairs before getting off at Luxembourg station.

We needed some breakfast pastries and knew we could stop in at the little patisserie on Rue Val de Grace, before turning into Rue Henri Barbusse, where the apartment was. To be a bit extravagant (we had been here before and bought Baklava) we bought three pastries, which we devoured for afternoon tea. It was a little close to dinner time, but to heck with that!:) Sorry, no photos! I was pretty photo'd out by now.

Dinner at home, and an early night after going through 650 photos...some of which you have seen here today!.

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